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Why Freezer Problems Happen

Defrost systemFrost-free freezers melt frost off the evaporator coil on a timer or a control. When a defrost heater, thermostat or timer fails, the coil ices over, air stops moving and the freezer slowly warms.
Evaporator and condenser fansOne fan moves cold air through the freezer and another cools the condenser. A fan that stops, or one that has frozen in place, is a frequent cause of a freezer that runs but does not freeze.
Thermostat and controlsA temperature control or sensor that fails can leave the compressor off, running nonstop or cycling at the wrong point.
Door gaskets and hingesA torn or flattened gasket lets warm, moist air in, which loads the freezer with frost and makes it run long. Chest freezer lids and upright doors both wear gaskets.
Condenser coilsDust on the condenser coils makes the system work harder and run warmer, especially for freezers kept in garages and utility rooms.
Sealed systemA refrigerant leak or a compressor that will not start is the most expensive freezer repair and needs an EPA-certified technician. It is also less common than the parts above.

What a Technician Checks

Temperature and airflowThe technician measures the actual freezer temperature, checks that vents inside are not blocked by food or frost and listens for the evaporator fan.
Evaporator coil and defrostOn frost-free models the back panel comes off to look at the coil. A coil packed with frost points to the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, timer or control.
FansThe evaporator fan inside and the condenser fan near the compressor are checked for power and for blades that are frozen in place or worn.
Condenser coilsDusty condenser coils are cleaned so the system can shed heat. Freezers in garages and basements collect dust and lint quickly.
Door gasket and alignmentGaskets are checked for tears and gaps and the door or lid for sag. A poor seal shows up as frost near the opening and long run times.
Thermostat and controlMechanical thermostats and electronic controls are tested against the temperature they should be holding before either is replaced.

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